Charmilles Robofil 400 Manual
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EDM Tooling Information Ruler sets for all makes and models of wire EDMs. Precision ground 420 hardened stainless steel, tapped for 8 mm screws and slotted for adjustment. Each set has dual holding capability including a Zero Plane side with replaceable tabs. On the opposite side is a precision ground ledge,.200' thick for supporting heavier workpieces. Other Products We Offer Please Call for Details!
Charmilles Robofil 400 Manual
EDM Network offers a line of other products such as Water Chillers, Automatic Voltage Regulators, Jomars Broken Tap Removers and more!. Support Services Let us help you today! If you have any questions about our products, give us a call at 888-289-3367 or email us at info@edmnetwork.com. We will help answer your questions or concerns to the best of our ability. Or call 888-BUY-EDMS (289-3367) Description Charmilles Roboform 400 CNC Sinker-Type EDM Year 1992 X-Axis Travel. 17.72' Y-Axis Travel. 12.59' Z-Axis Travel.
8.66' C-Axis Travel. Worktable Size. 33.5' x 22.05' Worktable Weight Capacity. 1100 Lbs Worktable to Electrode Chuck.
27.5' Maximum Speed. 20 RPM Work Tank Dimensions.
44.5' x 31.5' Work Tank Depth. 16.14' Electrode Head Capacity. 44 Lbs Automatic Tool Changer. 40 ATC Approx. Machine Dimensions. 107' x 83' x 108' Approx.
Weight w/Full Tank. 8270 Lbs Approx. Weight w/Empty Tank. 7500 Lbs EQUIPPED WITH: Charmilles CNC Control 40-Position Automatic Tool Changer C-Axis Chiller.
I have the training guide set-up procedure. I see I need a centering eyelet. I believe I also need a 'ZB block' that holds them at a specifice height and alignment and clamps to table zero. I cant seem to find any mention of this block online, for sale, etc.
Even any pictures of what to look for. I would love the dimensions to make one for a 1998 Robofil 290 edit: a Charmilles engineer sent me a picture.
Charmilles Robofil 510 Parts
Said I could just make it. So I' only a tiny bit confused about the instruction to 'clamp the ZB block to table zero with the eyelet up' I though it meant some special X0,Y0,Z0 location. But I believe it just means to the table top anywhere.
What about 'indicate the eyelet flat' instruction? I dont see how I could change that anyway? Just verify it is 'fairly flat'? Hi, I used a Robofil 400 for 10 years, and can advise the following: The height is set in the parameters, so any hgth from the table is fine. Usually 20mm (.75') works well. The wire is fed thru the hole, approx 6mm dia, and uses the x-y, u-v axis to tip the wire around at different angles.
All this is set in parameters again, lower check hgth, upper, angle etc. It can be anywhere on the table, it doesnt set the axis x or y, so doesnt care where the block is. The block is stainless, the checking hole is normally carbide, so it doesnt wear out too quick. But, if you make a few top die plates, they could be anything. Steel, brass, but carbide is better if you can. (You dont need to drill the holes in the carbide, you can wire in from the outside for both the check hole and clamp hole.) The hole is checked with the wire upright, then it tilts the wire left, right, foreward and back at different z hgths.
This calculated the standard u-v axis so the wire is upright, and it knows where the lower arm guides are. The checking hole needs to be flat, or it will effect the results.
OK, you could use a piece of thin plate (1mm-ish) with a good clean reamed 6mm hole, clamped on top of a 20mm-ish thick block. There is no need to make a special zb block or carbide eyelet. As long as you can describe where the eyelet is in Z, then there is no worries. Hope this helps, I can sketch out some quick dxf's if needed, I have Solidworks at home. Hole size doesnt matter, as the machine centre finds the aperture first, then tilts back, forewards, left and right, and checks the hole position with the head down, then up, and uses it to calculate the u-v axis, and the position of the guides in z. Hole size is not important, z hgth is, the machine (i think, from memory) needs to know where the top of the carbide is from the z datum (ie. The normal clamping level of your work).
Dont have the setting block rammed right into one corner of the table, as the machine will soft stop when it tilts the wire, as either the x or y will go out of movement. I threw away all the stainless parrallels within about 3 months of getting the machine, and made 2 long ones out of stavax (420 tooling stainless) that spanned the whole bed across the 2 granite uprights.
Very much like the old F40 machine we had 'back in the day'. The 440's i used in 2007/2008 had a 4 piece corner arrangement that was much better, but not as good as the 2 parrallels I made for the 400.
According to my man at charmilles, they have used the hole in a steel rule before when no block was available.